8 Unbelievable Facts About 9mm Firearms

Accurizing the Beretta M9 (or 92FS, which is the model number given to the version which is available to the civilian population in general) is something that competitive shooters happen to be doing for a while basically, but how exactly to do it really is a relatively unknown art.

Basically a simple little survey of sorts. We currently have the M9 (Beretta 92FS 9mm) as the conventional issue side arm for most military MOS's.

Luckily, it really is not that much distinctive from what you would have to do to make just about any gun accurate. There are actually some options that may also make the gun last a lot longer if you're a competitive shooter and need the frame (made of aluminum) to last for 10,000 rounds or even more.

The most difficult included in the whole process will be the trigger job itself, which allows the shooter to fire the gun accurately without disturbing the sight alignment. Most military-grade guns "out of the box" have a relatively heavy "single action" trigger pull of between 5 and 8 pounds for safety reasons (i.e. to avoid accidentally discharging the gun). For many marksmanship competitions, trigger pull must be at least 2.5 to 3 pounds. For "Service Pistol" competitions, the rule is 4 pounds minimum. In case you are not much of a professional gunsmith: take the gun to a gunsmith, let him/her handle that part of the work. You will be happier with the result for many different reasons, not the least of which will be the proven fact that doing a trigger job on a Beretta 92 (check out this one from Pkn Upi) is a significant pain. It entails several iterations of taking the sear out of the frame and re-installing it to test pull weight, and getting the sear in and out of the gun is difficult even if you've done it a hundred times. So do yourself a big favor and just tell your gunsmith what your minimum trigger pull must be.

Sear and hammer surfaces. The sear has a return spring which must be carefully removed and re-installed correctly whenever work is done on the sear. Take pictures prior to removal to make certain you can replace it the way it's supposed to be. The sear surface has to be polished (buffing wheel or rotary tool) and also a relief angle cut (similar to what you should do when doing sear work on a 1911) but don't modify the sear angle itself, or even the gun could possibly be unsafe. The hammer hooks need to be polished with a stone. Apply pressure-sensitive marking material (Dykem or other layout fluid), re-assemble everything and test everything. Disassemble and observe the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer hooks to make sure there is consistent sear contact throughout the entire width of both the hammer hooks.

In the event you are a professional, qualified and insured: the trigger pull weight on a Beretta results from a variety of the condition of the sear surface and hammer hook surface, plus spring condition.