A Startling Fact About 9mm Firearms Uncovered
Accurizing the Beretta M9 (or 92FS, which will be the model number given to the version that is available to the civilian population in general) is one thing that competitive shooters have been doing for a while simply, but the way to do it is a relatively unknown art.
Just about a simple little survey of sorts. We currently possess the M9 (Beretta 92FS 9mm) as the standard issue side arm for most military MOS's.
Luckily, it is not too much not the same as what you should need to do to make just about any gun accurate. There are actually some options that will also make the gun last a great deal longer if you're a competitive shooter and need the frame (made of aluminum) to last for 10,000 rounds or more.
The very difficult part of the whole process will be the trigger job itself, that enables the shooter to fire the gun accurately without disturbing the sight alignment. Most military-grade guns "out of the box" have a relatively heavy "single action" trigger pull of between 5 and 8 pounds for safety reasons (i.e. to avoid accidentally discharging the gun). For many marksmanship competitions, trigger pull must be at least 2.5 to 3 pounds. For "Service Pistol" competitions, the rule is 4 pounds minimum. If you're not much of a professional gunsmith: take the gun to a gunsmith, let him/her handle that a division of the work. You will be happier with the result for a number of reasons, not the very least of which is the idea that doing a trigger job on a Beretta 92 Series - visit the up coming site, is a significant pain. It needs several iterations of taking the sear out of the frame and re-installing it to test pull weight, and getting the sear in and out of the gun is difficult even when you've done it a hundred times. So do yourself a big favor and just tell your gunsmith what your minimum trigger pull needs to be.
Sear and hammer surfaces. The sear has a return spring which has to be carefully removed and re-installed correctly whenever work is done on the sear. Take pictures just before removal to be certain you can replace it the way it is supposed to be. The sear surface must be polished (buffing wheel or rotary tool) as well as a relief angle cut (just like what you will do when doing sear work on a 1911) but do not modify the sear angle itself, or even the gun may very well be unsafe. The hammer hooks need to be polished with a stone. Apply pressure-sensitive marking material (Dykem or other layout fluid), re-assemble everything and test everything. Disassemble and observe the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer hooks to ensure there is consistent sear contact across the entire width of both the hammer hooks.
If you are a professional, qualified and insured: the trigger pull weight on a Beretta results from a combination of the condition of the sear surface and hammer hook surface, plus spring condition.