The New Angle On 9mm Pistols Just Released

Accurizing the Beretta M9 (or 92FS, which will be the model number given to the version that's available to the civilian population in general) is something that competitive shooters happen to be doing for a while basically, but how exactly to do it is a relatively unknown art.

Just about a simple little survey of sorts. We currently have the M9 (Beretta 92FS 9mm Pistols) as the conventional issue side arm for most military MOS's.

Luckily, it is not too much not the same as what you should have to do to make just about any gun accurate. There are actually some options that will also make the gun last a lot longer in the event you are a competitive shooter and need the frame (made of aluminum) to last for 10,000 rounds or maybe more.

The most challenging included in the whole process will be the trigger job itself, which allows the shooter to fire the gun accurately without disturbing the sight alignment. Most military-grade guns "out of the box" have a relatively heavy "single action" trigger pull of between 5 and 8 pounds for safety reasons (i.e. to avoid accidentally discharging the gun). For many marksmanship competitions, trigger pull must be at least 2.5 to 3 pounds. For "Service Pistol" competitions, the rule is 4 pounds minimum. If you are not much of a professional gunsmith: take the gun to a gunsmith, let him/her handle that a part of the work. You will be happier with the result for various reasons, not the least of which is the proven fact that doing a trigger job on a Beretta is a significant pain. It needs several iterations of taking the sear out of the frame and re-installing it to test pull weight, and getting the sear in and out of the gun is difficult even if you've done it a hundred times. So do yourself a big favor and just tell your gunsmith what your minimum trigger pull must be.

Sear and hammer surfaces. The sear has a return spring which must be carefully removed and re-installed correctly whenever work is done on the sear. Take pictures prior to removal to guarantee you can replace it the way it really is supposed to be. The sear surface has to be polished (buffing wheel or rotary tool) and also a relief angle cut (just like what you would do when doing sear work on a 1911) but do not modify the sear angle itself, or perhaps the gun may be unsafe. The hammer hooks need to be polished with a stone. Apply pressure-sensitive marking material (Dykem or other layout fluid), re-assemble everything and test everything. Disassemble and observe the bearing surfaces of the sear and hammer hooks to make sure there is consistent sear contact through the entire width of both the hammer hooks.

In the event you are a professional, qualified and insured: the trigger pull weight on a Beretta results from a variety of the condition of the sear surface and hammer hook surface, plus spring condition.